Wk 10 – NE Portugal & Spain – Our Motorcycle Travel Blog 2022 & 2024

Mon 18th to Sun 24 July
Porto – Vila Real – Ponfedarra -Potes – Reinosa – Laguardia

Mon 18 July – Porto to Vila Real – 160k

We started the day with 2klm showing on the ‘to empty’ gauge, which isn’t really an issue because that means there’s still 10klm in the tank. Except when the first 2 servos shown on the GPS are closed – then its fumes, but we found one eventually which said we took all 15.5ltr that the tank takes 😜

I’d checked the oil and brake pads with the rear pads getting close to too thin and the oil needing 1/2ltr so I sourced a BMW dealership virtually on the route. They had the required 5/40 oil (only BMW uses that stuff, I think) but not the brake pads, but they did have a new F900R on the floor, so they took the pads out of that. Now that’s service. I’ll fit them and fill her later. We hit the road.

Today we traversed 100klm east straight up the Douro Valley and mostly following the amazing Douro River with its myriad of twists and turns.
The Barragem de Crestuma-Lever

Then it was from one side of the Douro River to the other as we slowly wandered eastwards.

Magnificent scenery and fairly quiet roads that just kept on wriggling their way east. We stopped for a hydration break over looking this.

Then at Peso da Régua we headed north into grape country. This is where all the grapes for the famous ‘Port’ wine are grown. Our (my) chosen route took us through some very remote countryside, all of it steep and tight and all of it cultivated to within an inch of its existence. And all of it just fantastic to ride through. It seemed to go on for ever.

There were fires around, quite a few by the smoke plumes. That’s Parque de Merendas da Póvoa that’s burning out to the west of us.

And Parque Natural do Alvão burning to the north of us with Vila Real behind the magnificant Viaduto do Corgo (Viaduct) in the fore ground. We rode through this area 2 days later.

We found our usual ‘in the middle of the old town’ accommodation. Had a shower and a snooze and went out for dinner.

Tue 19 July – Lay Day in Vila Real

It’s a lovely day, and in spite of the bush fires the temps are moderate and pleasant. We took a stroll, not a lot to see, but tranquil and easy to bear.

I topped up the oil with that odd BMW oil – I’d pretty much use any motorcycle oil, but they had the proper stuff so why not.

Wed 20 July – Vila Real to Ponferrada -250klm

Woke up to a perfect cool, clear and crisp day of 16c – hit the road by 8.30am for the 250klm run to Ponferrada.

Our first port of call was the Spa town of Chaves and it’s Ponte Romana de Chaves which is a Roman Bridge over the river Tamega which was constructed at the end of the 1st century or beginning of the 2nd.

Then, just up the hill is Castelo de Chaves built in 73BC according to Wikipedia.
It is surrounded by some lovely old buildings and lanes.

From Chaves onwards we were in smoke for the rest of the day, a remnant of the fires that ran through on Monday as we were coming in to Vila Real.

A Veiga offered a respite with a picnic area so we stopped for a brew, and a look at a couple of bridges. You can see the smoke haze.

The next 45klms of narrow but well surfaced road were non stop twisties as we traversed one range to the next and finally to O Braco. We saw plenty of evidence of the bush fires that were now burning in this area with a couple of fixed wing aircraft and 2 helicopter water bombers filling from the lakes that followed the road.

I must say we were never in any danger of the fires, they were quite aways from the road we were travelling and, by Australian standards anyway, the local temps were in the low 20s and there was virtually no wind, so certainly not conducive of the wildfires we’re led to believe were running through here. What we did see from the fires that had burnt to the roadsides we travelled, they appear to be mostly undergrowth fires, and certainly no what we’d call bush fires. Although the media will choose to differ.

We rocked in to Ponferrada around 2.30pm and threaded our way through Plazas and lanes to our moderate digs in the middle of the Old Town area.

Thurs 21 July – Ponferrada to Potes -240klm

Today looked like a great day for a ride, and it was. Nice and cool at 20c and heading up into the mountains again with the promise of wonderful views and fantastic roads. We weren’t disappointed.

East on the N-VI for a little way then NE on the LE-450 onto the LE-451 then the LE-493 to La Robla, which has a fairly serious open cut quarry thing happening. We stopped for a coffee with the locals sitting in the sun like lizards.

We’re now heading east on the CL-626 which skirts the mountains just there to our left as we snaked along to Sabero where we pick up the N-621 heading north into the mountains.

We also picked up the Rio Esla which, at 285klm, is a pretty decent river and has more flow than the Douro River which it flows in to and which we’d followed a few days previously.

The N-621 follows the Rio Esla all the way to it’s source. It also takes us all the way to Potes.
There’s a power station just east of Las Salas with a substantial lake behind it.

It ‘s a gorgeous ride through here with hardly anyone else on the road.
Riaño is our next port of call with the stark and prominent Pico Gilbo.

A little ways up the road is Boca de Huérgano with it’s Antiguo Puente de Boca de Huérgano which was built in the 15th century.

We’ve still got over 5oklms to go so we push on to Collado de Llesba and its magnificent views north into the Picos de Europa.

The Llesba viewpoint is is a natural viewpoint at an elevation of 1,682m and is better known as the Bear viewpoint because of its monument to the Brown Bear.

From here its 30klms to Potes and its a serious decent for most of that. A klm from the top we passed a couple on their fully loaded push bikes coming the other way. These 2 were older than we are and we were in awe of their guts and determination, but they did look totally worn out; hats off to them.

And so in to Potes which was heaving with tourists. It reminded me of Bright in NE Victoria but on a much larger scale. It has lots of bridges.

The plan for today, Friday 22nd July, and a Lay Day was to take the 25klm ride up to Fuente De and then catch a Cable Car up to spectacular views out into the Picos de Europa. But today the was forecast was cloud everywhere. We had an enjoyable day anyway sitting on the main drag having coffee and cake and watching the world go by.

Sat 23 July – Potes to Reinosa -190klm

Weather forecasts are strange beasts, but generally fairly accurate in our experience. So last evening we took a chance and booked early tickets on the Fuente De cable car because the forecast said there’d be sunshine up there. And there was.
So first in line, because we don’t do late like all those people behind us, we were in the 8.30am car and headed virtually straight up 753mts.

The views were certainly stunning as usual pictures do not do them justice.

We spent a half hour up there then came down to be greeted by a que that went on forever. That’s why we don’t do late.
We headed back down the hill to Potes and then took the N-621 north for 15klms. It was a perfect day for a ride through this majestic scenery,

before hanging a right onto the CA-282, which is a glorious bikers road with it’s tight twisties and stunning views through remote back country.

We chased this road along its way for 25klms then stopped for a brew. Sitting there in the middle of nowhere when out of the bush popped all these Scouts. They were a group from Madrid; 17 young kids with 4 young adults as leaders.

Another 10klms and we were on the C-182 then the CA-280 and heading south along another magnificent biker’s dream albeit quite tight. But be careful, these things are everywhere along with their bovine mates.

Down the range for 35klms and we took a right onto the CA-183 which was the road that motorbikes were made for; 20 klms of the best road to date. As Norma said ‘You could have had some fun on that by yourself’ I had a heap of fun with both of us.

This took us to Collado de la Fuente del Chivo with it’s vistas north and west out over the Pico de Europa. The haze took some of the shine off the views but non the less they were worth the ride. Hey, the ride was worth the ride.

The ride down was pretty fun as well, so we stopped at the bottom for a coffee before the 20klm run into Reinosa. Had a chat with a guy who’d caféd an R100. Very nice.

So into Reinosa.

Sun 24 July – Reinosa to Laguardia -185klm

Today threatens to get to 42c so we’re very thankful to our host for an early breakfast and we’re on the road by 8am on a truly magnificent morning.

We’re only 10klms out of Reinosa and spy the Puente de Horna de Ebro to our left so we took a gander.

We’re on the southern shore of Ebro Reservoir built between 1921 and 1945. Seems they weren’t in a hurry. Further up the road we encounter the Puente del Tren de la Robla narrow gauge railway bridge. Pretty hey in the calm of the morning.

We followed the BU-564 to the N-232 then the BU-561 to Puente natural del río Nela or Nela River Natural Bridge which is a natural bridge that consists of a huge stone arch on which the village of Puentedey is built. We took our time and our photos.

50 klms further SE was Frias with it’s Puente de Frías across the Elbos River. Its predominantly Gothic style construction dates back to the 13th century.

The city of Frías is the smallest city in Spain with a castle crowned by a peculiar rock and dating back to the 9th century.

A little further is on is Tobera.

A further 10klms and 1,000mtrs higher brings us to Mirador El Portillo de Busto viewpoint which is the perfect place to enjoy the surrounding landscapes, to the north on one side

Then the south just over the top. As far as the eye can see there is cultivation with the wheat harvest in full swing.

50klms down the N-232 we come to the urban centre of San Vicente de la Sonsierra and it’s walled Castle of San Vicente de la Sonsierra which is a medieval military fortress castle built in the 12th century.

We rode as far as the barriers allowed then climbed to the top of the fortifications and enjoyed the wonderful views.

Then sat in the Plaza and indulged in a coffee.

From here it was a mere 20klms to the delightful Laguardia which dates back a long way. It’s a rather small walled hill top town, and as they all are, very popular with the tourists. We enjoyed it as well.