Week 3 – Scotland

Mon 30 May – Sun 5 June
Edinburgh, Ballater, Inverness, Ullapool, Gairloch, Skye

Mon 30/5 – Edinburgh – Ballater – 265klm

This morning is overcast but promising to be dry until 11am, so we decide to trust the forecast and not tog up in our Panda Wear.

Today is a long day so it’s an early start. Leaving the fair city of Edinburgh with it’s abundance of classic buildings, we head west for the tiny seaport of Queensferry with it’s 3 famous bridges.
The Forth (rail) Bridge opened in 1890 and is a Scottish icon that is recognised the world over as the most famous of cantilever designs. The world’s first major steel structure, the Forth Bridge represents a milestone in the history of modern railway civil engineering and still holds the record as the world’s longest cantilever bridge. Regrettably the tide is out so this lovely little harbour isn’t showing at it’s best.

The Forth Road Bridge is one of the world’s most significant long span suspension bridges. With a main span of 1006 metres between the two towers, it was the fourth longest in the world and the longest outside the United States when it opened in 1964. The structure is over 2.5 km long with 39,000 tonnes of steel and 125,000 cubic metres of concrete used in its construction.
Right behind the Forth Road Bridge is The Queensferry Crossing which opened to traffic in 2017. The 2.7km structure is the longest three-tower, cable-stayed bridge in the world.

There was a cruise ship anchored in the roadstead which was just disgorging its horde of tourists, so there were buses everywhere as we left Queensferry and headed further west.

To The Kelpies. The Kelpies are rooted in Scottish history and heritage. Back in the late 18th and early 19th century you would have heard the clip-clop of heavy horses on the towpath , which is the inspiration behind The Kelpies, efficiently drawing barges of iron ore, coal and goods from Falkirk’s world famous Carron Iron Works along the canal to the bustling industrial hearts of Edinburgh, Glasgow and beyond.

Just up the road is the Falkirk Wheel. Originally the Forth & Clyde and Union Canals were linked by a flight of 11 locks which took nearly a day to transit. These were dismantled in 1933. In 1994 the concept of a wheel as a boat lift was first considered as a solution for Falkirk and was opened in 2002. The world’s only rotating boat lift, The Falkirk Wheel links the Forth & Clyde Canal to the Union Canal 35 metres above, allowing vessels to sail through the sky thanks to a unique fusion of art and engineering – and only using the same power it would take to boil eight kettles.

It was now approaching the foreshadowed 11am weather deterioration so we donned our wet weather pants and headed north. Through Crieff where we filled up with fuel, and on to the lovely village of Dunkeld which sits on the banks of the River Tay where we stopped for bite to eat and a wander.

We’d only had a little rain up until now as we headed to Pitlochry and into The Highlands where we were met with heavy rain, 5c and blowing a gale which isn’t pleasant at any time but I suppose this is what Scotland is known for so we soldiered on.

Despite the inclement conditions the countryside was still stunning. Yep, there’s still snow up there behind the ‘Old Bridge of Dee’, which was built around 1740.

And so to Ballater, close to Balmoral Castle. We stood in the rain as I tried to contact our landlord for the night only to find she’d locked herself out. So we stood in the rain some more and waited for someone to rescue us with a spare key. Norma wasn’t too impressed, nor could I blame her as she’d endued quite enough for the day without a whisper.

And this guy working a fly under the bridge.

Tue 31/5 – Ballater – Inverness – 220klm

The sun was trying to shine as we took our leave of Ballater and ventured into more of Scotland’s breathtaking Highlands.

Across Gairnshiel Bridge on the border of the Queen’s Estate, to Nethy Bridge where we stopped for a brew. As you can see we weren’t trusting the weather but we are smiling.

The Broomhill Bridge crossing the River Spey, is considered the finest wooden bridge surviving in Scotland. It was built in 1894 and replaces an earlier one built in 1863.

Further on we came across Old Packhorse Bridge. One of the most iconic visitor attractions in the Cairngorms, the old packhorse bridge across the River Dulnain at Carrbridge was built in 1717. The bridge was built to allow funeral processions to access Duthil Church when the river was in flood.

Findhorn Viaduct was opened in 1897. The bridge’s nine spans total 405m in length, and is up to 44m above ground level.

Just around the corner is the unused Divie Viaduct built in 1863. The 145m long viaduct carried a single railway track 32m above the river supported by seven 14m arches

We continued on NW then sharply SW to Fort Augustus, reaching there with 1 mile showing on the fuel gauge – but I know that is 10 miles out 😜
Situated on the southern tip of Loch Ness, and lying on the 60 mile long Caledonian Canal, Fort Augustus is a very popular tourist attraction. It was packed as we stopped for lunch. We snared a table under an awning as a thunder storm had many scurrying for shelter.

And so to Inverness following Loch Ness’s western shore – no monsters today.

Wed 1/6 – Lay Day In Inverness

Blue skies as we wandered the pleasant town of Inverness.

Thur 2/6 – Inverness – Ullapool – 178klm

With summer finally arriving in Scotland we left Inverness with smiles at the lovely conditions. A quick peek at the Kessock Bridge crossing the Beauly Firth. This was opened in 1982 and has a total length of 1056m with a central span of 240m.

We headed north.

To Shin Railway Viaduct. Opened 1868 and still in use, it comprises a 85m lattice girder main span and five stone approach arches, each of 9m span.

A U turn at Lairg led us through some very remote, single laned and heavily plantationed country to the Old Oykel Bridge built in 1823, and replaced in the 1930s with an identical looking bridge right next to it.

With these guys working a fly just downstream.

There’s some rugged country through here.

To Ullapool which was literally packed with tourists. We’d booked our cheapish room back in February and it cost A$258 for a single night then, which is our most expensive accommodation – lots dearer now, and nothing to be found.

Fri 3/6 – Ullapool – Gairloch – 95klm

Some pretty views leaving town.

And ran into this bunch of 13 guys, mostly young, and all ex or current employees of Triumph Motorcycles. They where all riding small capacity Japanese bikes and mostly older 2 strokes. We had a brew.

Pretty.

Barren.

And beautiful.

We arrived in Gairloch. Where our accommodation is a mere A$245 for the night 😒
But hey, its Friday, and we all know what that means – single scoop for A$5 😂

Sat 4/6 – Gairloch – Skye – 225klm

Another longish day in glorious sunshine. More of this:

A brew at Shieldaig.
Actually we’re not brewing on this trip. On our previous two trips we’d carried an espresso maker with cooker etc. This time we’re carrying stainless flasks and using instant coffee. Takes some of the romance out of it, but its so much easier.

More remoteness and shaggy cattle of the Scottish Highland Breed.

The top of Applecross Pass looking out towards the Isle of Skye.

And the infamous Applecross Pass. Its pretty impressive to look at but no big deal to ride except for the fact that its mostly singled lane.

And across to the Isle of Skye where we’ll take a lay day.

The Sligachan Old Bridge, built between 1810 and 1818, and replaced in the 1930s with the bridge behind it.

And so to Portree which is also packed with the tourists. I’m guessing this is quite the norm in these areas of Scotland, but this is also Queeny’s Platinum Jubilee (70 years) so the whole of the UK is awash with nostalgia and hopping into their cars and heading somewhere else to enjoy the 4 day weekend. Good for them, we’ll join them.

Sun 5/6 – Lay Day In Portree

Portree being quite small, it didn’t take us long to scout out. Nice little harbour and that’s about it.

Tomorrow its off to Oban.