Wk 11 – Into The Pyrenes

Mon 25th to Sun 31st July
Laguardia – Pamplona – Arette – Lourdes – Sort – Tosa de Mar

Mon 25 July – Pamplona – 150k

We start the today with breakfast on the balcony overlooking this. It’s another gorgeous day for a ride.

We fill up with fuel and leave lovely Laguardia and head NE to Chabola de La Hechicera – Sorginaren Txabola (Sorceress’s Shanty) which is a dolmen with a large chamber, corridor and burial mound. 

We follow the A-3228 as it skirts the Izkiko Natural Park. At Lapoblación we hang a left and cut up into the Park itself on the NA-7210.

The rural scenery is stunning and harvest is in full swing.

To Viaducto de Arquijas which was built in 1925. On October 28, 1939, a freight train and a passenger train collided in the center of the Arquijas Viaduct which is 30 meters high and is made up of nine arches and was built in concrete covered with stone.

We’re now on the NA-132A and headed for Estella and it’s Monastery of Santa Maria de Irache

We rode through Estella and one of it’s ancient castle gates.

Before checking out Puente de la Cárcel over the Rio Egra. It was built in 1873, replacing a Romanesque predecessor.

Leaving Estella we headed towards Puente La Reina-Gares with it’s six-arched Romanesque bridge over the Arga River originally built for the use of pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela along the Camino de Santiago.

There was lots of recent bush fire evidence through here.

There was some beautiful scenery as we snaked and climbed and hairpinned our way along the high road coming into Pamplona.

So into Pamplona on what turns out to be a public holiday so everyone is out and about. We found spacious apartment directly opposite the Bull Ring.

And enjoyed Tapas for dinner.

Tues 26 July – Pamplona Lay Day

What a fantastic town – there’s motorcycle parking spaces on every corner. We wandered.

Wed 27 July – Pamplona to Arette (France) – 150klm

Today we head up into the Pyrenees – I’ve been looking forward to this ever since I started planning this tour back in 2020.
It’s another lovely day, we grab a quick Café Americano con leche and fill up with fuel, then hit the N-135 heading north and east with the mountains on the horizon.

Passed a couple of medieval bridges. Puente medieval de Iroz and Puente Viejo

And settled in to enjoy the never-ending series of twists and turns as we ascended higher into the Pyrenees.
A quick stop at Ochagavía – Otsagabia (how’s that for the name of a town)

We’re now pretty much right under the mountains and following the Rio Belagua valley. There were a lot of people about trekking and mountain biking. There were these two magnificent ancient bridges – Puente Románico de Isaba – Erromaniko Garaiko Izabako Zubia. I can’t find any information concerning there age etc.

The jump-up to the top of the range

was a perfect ride on a motorcycle up through the dozen or so switchbacks and the views were spectacular looking south into Spain.

We passed into France just up the road. There was quite a bit of cloud about by now, and getting a little colder.

It was then down and ever downward

for the 25klms into Arette where we stayed for the night. This town had been devastated by an earthquake in 1967.

Thurs 28 July – Arette to Lourdes – 125klm

It was overcast and cool as we left Arette. The plan for the day was to follow the roads that skirted as close to the mountains as possible. It was a short day, but we weren’t disappointed.

Through some French villas

Before we started to climb.
The Col de Marie Blanque at 1035m

Then down and through the valley and through Laruns

And then compete with the cycle riders up to 1710m through the heavy cloud cover to Col d’Aubisque and it’s amazing views and Le Tour de France heritage.

Then a beautiful ride along the northern side of the range to another Tour de France favourite, the Col de Soulor at 1474m, where we stopped for a coffee and a sandwich.

From there it was beautiful riding as we descended towards our destination.

TomTom got herself a little confused trying to find our accommodation in Lourdes but we got there with a little help from her friend Google Maps.

Today has been a rest day with a little sight seeing, blog writing, bookkeeping work, GPS tracking etc.

Sat 30 July – Lourdes to Sort – 230klm

It’s misty and cool as we fuel up and leave Lourdes heading south before turning NE and joining the many push bike riders ascending the 2115m through the cloud to the famed Col du Tourmalet. We had a coffee and waited for the some clear vision which lasted 10 seconds.

Then it was down again

past the scores of bike riders and through La Mongie with its criss cross of chair lifts.

Losing 1000m and passing through one small hamlet to another to Peyrehitte,

we begin the ascent of Col d’Aspin which is also hiding it’s majesty with a skirt of cloud. Had a bit of a chat with a couple of riders who were on Guzzis.

Then down to Garia at 700m on absolutely perfect roads; they have to be because the Tour de France is run on these roads. Riding them on a motorcycle is quite exhilarating, but it must be torture on a push bike.

There a number of ups and downs before we get to the French / Spanish border at Col du Portillon which is 1295m. We stopped for a brew.

From there its 25klm to Vielha where we stopped at the same café we’d stopped at on our 2016 journey.

From Vielha to Sort is 75klms of lovely road through very prosperous ski towns one after the other. Up and over Port de la Bonaigua at 2100m with it’s non stop hairpins and glorious vistas.

And down the other side. It never ends.

Sun 31 July – Sort to Tossa de Mar – 265klm

Today was all about getting to the coast and it was a long day with the temps between 13c and 34c. We basically followed the N-260 for most of the day, apart from a misguided excursion along the N-260A for 45klms which has to be the most twisted piece of tarmac we’ve encountered to date. I’d promised Norma highway the whole way too.
It all started here at La Pobla de Lillet with its cluster of bridges.

The final 100klm was mostly freeway with a A$15 toll for a 3klm tunnel thrown in. But we got to the coast at Tossa de Mar where we’ll prop for 5 nights before catching the ferry to Sardinia.